After reading an article in the October 2014 edition of the JEC magazine, on the remote hood modification for the X100, I decided to purchase one for my 2007 X150. The kit was purchased from Steve Klonsky, in the US, aka The Jag wrangler! The basic kit costs about £125 but I chose the kit with the option to raise the rear windows when the top is down thus reducing noise and buffeting. This cost’s about £160 plus £15 postage and packing.
Delivery took about 2 weeks and there was £20 Customs Duty to pay which included an £8 Royal Mail handling charge! I spent those two weeks reading and re-reading the instructions as I do not have any auto electrical experience. The fitting instructions for the X150 differ from the X100 as all the work is carried out behind the rear seats and does not involve removing door trims, wheels or wheel arch liners. However it is a confined space to work in and I would recommend getting out regularly stretching your legs.
In the kit you get a Remote top control module with vehicle-matched colour-coded wiring harness
, black tie wraps, Posi-Taps, clear vinyl insulating tubes and a Velcro patch. You also get a USB cable for possible future software upgrades but it is not needed for installation.For the Rear Window control option you also get a Rear window control relay and wiring harness assembly (pre-wired to remote top control module) and more Posi-Taps and Velcro patches.
Tools required include a 1/4” or 3/8” ratchet , Torque wench, 10mm socket , T30 torx socket (male), T40 torx socket (male) , a Cool-running bright light source that you can bring inside of vehicle, Scissors , Small flat blade screwdriver (helpful but not required), Magnifier (helpful but not required) and a Handheld hair dryer (Very helpful!)
Once the battery is disconnected the rear seats, armrest and centre panel are removed to expose the fuse box and connectors. Now the real work can start. The first big job is to remove the Rollover Protection Device. I have never seen one out of a car before and was quite impressed with the design and manufacture of the device. Despite it having a Ford Motor Company sticker on! The Torx bolts holding the device in were REALLY tight, as you would expect, and you need a good, sturdy tool to remove them. I broke one trying to undo them!
Convertible Hood Module
Now came the part I was dreading. Steve Klonsky uses Posi-Tap connections that pierce the wire you are tapping into. I spent a lot of time here working out which direction to align the Taps remembering it has to fit behind the Rollover Protection Device, and not wanting to trap any wires.
The instructions are virtually fool proof and I soon had all the taps in. Patches of Velcro are also supplied in the kit to tuck the relays out of the way and I was ready for testing.
Again the instructions are excellent. I followed them to the letter and only had a problem when the rear windows test failed. I followed the instructions as to what to do if this happened and found I had not clipped one of the relays back together tight enough. Once this was fixed the windows worked perfectly.
Now that all the preliminary tests had been passed I had to do two more Posi-Taps close to where I had already done two and then cut the wire between! I hesitated at this point and felt the sweat on the back of my neck as I checked and checked and checked I had the right wire. I know how James Bond must feel defusing a bomb! Once the wire was cut it was a simple case of covering the small length of cut wire with a plastic insulator. The recommendation in the instructions to use a hairdryer on this certainly helped slide it on. All wiring was now complete and after tidying up the new wiring the remote control module could now be Velcro’d to the top of the fuse box.